Isiqondiso somculo we-jazz sabonakala eminyakeni eyikude ekhulwini lokugcina isitayela esiyingqayizivele nesasendulo ekugqoke izingubo, okwathi cishe okwesikhashana kwadumile phakathi kwamakhulu ezinkulungwane zabesifazane emhlabeni wonke. Izici eziyinhloko zomkhuba omusha wefashini kwakuyizinguquko zokugcizelela kanye nezithakazelo emhlabeni jikelele. Imfashini yamakhosikazi yanquma ukushiya yonke i-corsets, i-stuffy, izembatho ezivaliwe nazo zonke izivimbelo zokuziphatha ezikhona. Isizathu esiyinhloko salokhu konke kwakuwukuphela kweMpi Yezwe Yokuqala. Ngakho-ke, isitayela se-jazz ezembathweni luhlobo lokubonakalisa injabulo ekhanyayo, kanye nokujabulela yonke imizuzu yokuphila okunokuthula.
Isitayela esiyinhloko, esichaza isitayela seminyaka engamashumi amabili ekhulwini lokugcina, kwakuwukulula kwezici zezingubo zabesifazane. Cishe ngaso leso sikhathi, ama-corsets ayanyamalala, izigqoko zaba ngokwesifazana, mahhala. Izigqoko nazo zazihlanganisa nokulula okukhethekile nokuphakama, ukukhanya kanye nobulili. Uthando lwezici ze-lace nokudayiswa kwezingubo zibuye kube esinye sezimo eziyinhloko zekhulu lama-20 leminyaka.
Isitayela se-jazz esembatho yabesifazane
Imfashini yezingubo ezihlinzeka ngesitayela sama-1920 ezembatho zakwabesifazane ze-jazz zishintshile ngokuphawulekayo. Ushintshe ngokugcwele ukugxila emgqeni okhalweni - wehla ezingeni lezinyopho. Ngenkathi ingubo ngokwayo ibheka njengepayipi ngendlela yayo: elula futhi eqondile. Izembatho zokugqoka zazifana nemisila yezinyoni eziyinqaba, zahlonywa ngasemaphethelweni omphetho onomphetho owawuqhuma emgqeni womculo ngesikhathi somdanso oshisayo. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ukuthandwa okhethekile kwakubuye kusetshenziswe iziketi, umsebenzi oyinhloko owakwazi ukugcizelela izinkalo. I-decollete yadlulela endaweni yangemuva, lapho ngaphambilini kwakukhona izinkinobho ezazimboza ngokuphelele. Emaphethelweni eengubo kanye nezingubo zashintsha masinyane baze bafike emadolweni. Futhi emfashini kwakuyi-hem asymmetrical hem, imicibisholo enamandla nemidwebo ekhanyayo. Izinto ezidumile zokugqoka kwakusihlwa yi-velvet, isilikhi ne-satin.
Izindlela zanamuhla zokugqoka ezitayela zamajaji we-jazz nazo ziphinda ziphindaphindiwe ngendlela yekhulu leminyaka elidlule. Ngokuphindaphindiwe, abakhi bomhlaba bakhiqiza izingubo ezikhanyayo, ezigeleza nge-decollete ejulile emhlane wabo, ohlotshiswe ukumiswa kwangempela. Ukuthandwa kwesitayela se-jazz ezembathweni kubangelwa ukukhanya kwayo, ukuzimisela nokulula okulula.
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
