Indoda eyayineminyaka engama-21 ingaba yinhloko yenkampani yonke, inkosi yezemfashini - uYves Sen Laurent, yenza inguquko yangempela embonini yemfashini. Uphendulele yonke imibukiso yaleso sikhathi mayelana nezingubo zabesifazane futhi waba ngowokuqala owenza izigqoko zesikhumba, i-tuxedos nama-boots-boots aphezulu, izakhi ezithandwayo zesigqoko sesifazane.
Yves Saint Laurent - biography
Umlando we-couturier omkhulu waqala e-Algiers ngo-1936. Wayenomndeni ocebile futhi okhululekile. U-Yves (ngokusikisela kukayise) kwakuzoba ngummeli, kodwa unina wasiza le nsizwa ukuba ikhethe umsebenzi owawukusondelene naye emoyeni. Wahlela umhlangano nomhleli-inhloko-mkhulu ka-Bor umagazini, uMichel de Brunoff.
Lapho ebona umdwebo we-Saint-Laurent osemusha, uBrunoff wabona ngokushesha kuye ithalenta lomklami wefestile futhi wadlala indima eqondile ekugcineni kwakhe esikhathini esizayo. Nguye owakhuthaza le nsizwa ukuba izisize ku-Christian Dior.
Fashion House Yves Saint Laurent
Kodwa emva kweminyaka emithathu nje kokuqala kokubambisana kukaYves Saint Laurent nomuzi wezakhiwo, uChristian Dior wadlula, kanti uYves, osencane futhi engenalwazi, wavuka waya embusweni wombuso. Esikhundleni esisha, wakhulula iqoqo lakhe lokuqala. Kulo, waqala ukufaka ingubo engavamile ekugqokeni kwayo ngesigwebo se-trapezoidal, ukushaya abahlaziyi bezimfashini kanye nomhlaba wonke obala ngalesi sinqumo esingalindelekile - ngesibindi nokuhlakanipha okunjalo, umklami omncane wanikezwa uNeiman Marcus Oscar ohloniphekile.
Nokho, maduzane ngemuva kwalokho, waboshwa ebuthweni, lapho ngemuva kwamasonto amathathu ehlala khona wabe esethunyelwa ngokutholakala "kokuphazamiseka kwemizwa". U-Eva waqhubeka nokwelashwa emtholampilo wezifo zengqondo, okwakuyisizathu sokususwa kwakhe ngokushesha eNdlu yeDior.
Kunzima ukugcizelela ukuthi ngokuhamba komklami wezandla, imfashini ingahle ilahlekelwe. Kodwa u-Yves Saint Laurent akazange acabange ngisho nokushiya isikhathi sakhe sokuthanda isikhathi eside. Sekuyisikhathi esifushane, ngosizo lomngane wakhe omncane uPeter Berge, wabeka uphawu lwakhe lwe-YSL. I-logo ye-brand entsha efanayo Yves Saint Laurent ayikhethwanga ngengozi - yayiyizinhlamvu zokuqala zegama lomklami wezemfashini omkhulu. Uphawu olusha luye lwajabulisa abagxeki namakhasimende emhlabeni wonke ngamaqoqo abo angafani nalawa adalwe.
Ngakho uYves Saint Laurent wethula ngesibindi isibambiso samadoda esembathweni sakwabesifazane, futhi ingubo yakhe yesifazane yengubo egqoke ngayo i-Le Smoking ngokushesha inqobe izinhliziyo zabalandeli emhlabeni jikelele.
Izingubo ezingavamile, ezazithengiswa ezitolo zezingane ezincane ezivulekile, zazingekho ngaphansi kobuhle kuze kube kusihlwa. Isitayela sikaYves Saint Laurent sasivame ukubizwa ngokuthi "ubuhle bemvelo". Ngesilinganiso esiphelele, umklami wefashini wamkhombisa emgqeni we-African dress for show spring-summer kanye neqoqo elisekelwe ezithombeni zaseRashiya ezihlala phansi. Bangena emlandweni wefestile njengomunye wemiboniso emihle emsebenzini wakhe wokudala. Ngokuphawulekayo, u-Yves wayengowokuqala ukumema abantu abamnyama ukuba bahlanganyele emibonweni yeqoqo lakhe.
Kucatshangwa ukuthi kwakunguYves Saint Laurent owafaka amajackets, ama-blades ebonakalayo kanye nama-overalls abe yifashini. Wayekuthanda nokusebenzisa izinto ezibonakalayo eziqoqweni zakhe, okwakuphikiswa ngaso sonke isikhathi ngokuphindaphindiwe. Noma kunjalo, ngesikhathi esifanayo, zonke izingubo zakhe ezintsha zaba esinye isiqiniseko sokuthi umklami uyakwazi ukuxuba ithalenta eliphezulu
Kusukela ngoJanuwari 2002, u-Yves Saint Laurent uphume umhlalaphansi, kodwa umkhiqizo wakhe uyaqhubeka uphumelela futhi uthandwa kakhulu. Kuze kube manje, i-YSL Fashion House inezitolo ezinkulu ezinkulu ezingaphezu kuka-60 emhlabeni jikelele - eParis, eLondon, eMilan, eHong Kong nakwamanye amadolobha amaningi.
Iqoqo ngalinye le-Yves Saint Laurent, elibhekwa njengelungajwayelekile nelingavamile, namuhla laba yiziqu zemvelo. Ngemva kokudala umkhiqizo wakhe, umklami wezethamelwane wekhono wabuza isiqondiso esisha ngokuphelele emfashini futhi waphenduka kuze kube phakade umbono wezingubo zabesifazane.